Take the rails and stiles back to my flat board work station and nine times out of ten either a rail or stile is slightly warped. Router the rail and stile profiles using a Rockler rail and stile two bit set.ĥ. Layout the rails and stiles on a flat board no problem.Ĥ. I do not plane it because I need the full 3/4 thickness.ģ. Someone tell me what I am doing wrong! Step by step:ġ. The Blum documentation I have only has recommendations for the number of hinges per door based on weight and door height, but nothing about the placement of the hinge along the stile. Long doors might get a third or fourth hinge in the center. When I use European style cup hinges (which is most of the time for casework), my hinges are always 4" from the top and bottom. I work through all of my pipe clamps (20, enough for 10 doors), by the time I get to the tenth door I can pull door number 1 out of the clamps and keep going. On the back side of the door I then shoot 3 pins at each joint- about 3/16" in from the joint to catch the tenon. I tighten just enough to close the joint, no more. When I do my glue ups, I assemble the door and close the joints with two pipe clamps- one on top and one on the bottom. I then do the cope and stick cuts on the shaper. Next day I joint a flat face on my rail and stile material, plane to thickness, square up one edge on the jointer, rip to width on the TS and clean up the cut with the jointer, then CTL on my radial arm. I rough cut to length and width and let sit overnight. I follow almost exactly the same process as Willie. It's far more stable than the plain sawn material- I save that for the panels. I always sort the material to use the quarter sawn or rift sawn pieces for rails and stiles. You must start with straight, flat stock. Any warping in a 5 panel door is due to the material moving or possibly over tightening clamps. I favor parallel clamps for door glueups, but pipe clamps can work if you go easy. It is human nature to throw on a bunch on pipe clamps and C…R…A…N…K them down. One final thing, use only enough clamping pressure to close the joints, no more. However, if I used that same bowed board to make cabinet doors, I would be in trouble. I can edge a plywood shelf with a slightly bowed board successfully. Doors need to be flat and true on their own, since they are not glued to any other flat reference surface. It not only is more stable, but gives adequate width for the cup hinge holes.īasically cabinet doors are much different than other components in the cabinet. Quartersawn lumber will be naturally more stable than flatsawn. 3/4" is standard, but is more likely to warp. I use 7/8" thick stock for cabinet doors. Then run them through the planer to final thickness. That way the jointer will remove any warp or twist from each board. Stack and sticker the boards overnight, and repeat the entire process. For instance, if I did 75% of my planing on one face of the board, it will warp. First I rough mill them flat and square, being careful to remove equal amounts of material from both sides of the board. I mill my cabinet door parts in two phases. Was the lumber jointed and planed for this project, or did you buy it at finished thickness?
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |